Welcome To ShockClock - 4.3 ShockClock Problems

If the Green light flickers and goes out every time the lower tube reaches a certain point of extension, then the transducer may have lost some receive sensitivity and should be replaced.
If the Green Light is flickering when the tube is pushed close to the point of full collapse (fully inside the upper tube), then you are exceeding the minimum distance requirement. Keep the face of the lower tube piston at least 50 mm away from the face of the transducer (the gold foil).
If the Green Power Light is flickering randomly as the lower tube is pushed and pulled within the upper tube, either the Transducer or cable are damaged and should be replaced.

Issue #2 – “Unable to communicate with the ShockClock” error message during download.

The ShockClock is not turned on.
The COM Port is not setup correctly.
The cable is not connected or is damaged.

Issue #3 – “Too many dropouts or bad data points.” error message during download.

Under normal operation, the transducer will occasionally drop a data point or record a bad value. This is OK because the Software detects and corrects them automatically. If your recording has more than 500 bad data points an error message will appear.

The minimum distance has been violated. The minimum distance between the Piston Face and the Transducer Face (gold foil) is about 75 mm (3”).
The tubes have been shortened incorrectly and the piston has "tagged" the gold foil. This will destroy the Transducer.
You may have either a bad cable or transducer. Try making a recording and listen closely at the end of the tube for a buzzing sound. The Transducer still may be bad even if there is a buzz.
If the transducer extension cable is being used, disconnect it and do a trial download with the Transducer connected directly to the ShockClock.
Make sure the batteries are fresh. As they get weak they can cause weird behavior just before they die.
The Transducer must be able to “breathe”. If the inner Wave-Guide Tube is plugged, it will not be able to vent and will cause dropouts.
The Transducer Foil may have gotten wet. It is sometimes possible to bring it back to life. Use a little Rubbing Alcohol and then let it air dry.

Issue #4 – Green Power light is flashing – ShockClock is not operational.

Low battery indication. Replace batteries.
Batteries just changed. This is normal during initial power on.

Issue #5 – Lights do not go on when Power button is pressed.

Batteries are dead or missing. Replace batteries.

Issue #6 – ShockClock does not Record.

The ShockClock could be full. Either the memory is full or there are already 10 recordings stored in the ShockClock. Remember new ShockClock does not erase it's memory when the power is turned off.
ShockClocks produced after May 2004 do not lose memory when you power the unit off. To erase the memory either Download the ShockClock or erase the memory manually. To erase the memory manually hold down the “Temp Calib” button until the light stops flashing.
If the memory is not erased during a download check “Prefs” to see if the “Auto Erase” box is checked.

Issue #7 – Both ShockClocks start recording immediately when the Remote Record Switch is plugged in.

Older ShockClocks require independent start circuits and therefore require the MSRS 02 Remote Record Switch. Newer ShockClocks (after May 2004) do not require independent circuits and use Switch MSRS 03. Any combination of ShockClocks that include an older version require the MSRS 02 Switch.